TruettStinson144
stone wall cladding - Stone is a defining feature in almost any room and adds instant solidity, luxury and grandness whether you determine to cover all your walls with marble or just use it for a simple round basin. Although stone is definitely an tough material once installed, the self -builder must always take special care to see the delivery and installation process runs smoothly. Dirt from visitors or a careless knock from the power tool could lead to a costly repair bill. Keep your room clean and tidy, check larger items like a stone bath, can fit through a door entrance (you may want to leave off architrave/frames to permit extra room). The weight of stonework also means that it should be planned in in the home's design stage as load-bearing joists may need to be increased in size or even doubled as much as cope with the weight.
Preparing floors
A new concrete screed is the perfect base for stone floor tiles, as long as the concrete is fully cured. New concrete needs to be at least six weeks old and show no signs and symptoms of remaining moisture. You may need to use a thin screed of self-leveling compound to balance out any low spots. Again, leave the compound to totally cure before tiling.
If you're working on new flooring grade T&G chipboard panels, check the edges are fixed at 300mm centers and tile to the surface with a flexible adhesive all the trade adhesive manufacturers have powder mixes designed for timber flooring. For any restoration project, never try to tile directly onto old floorboards. Instead, develop a new sub-base with 15mm exterior grade plywood, screwed down at 300mm centers with stainless steel screws. Stagger the board joints and adjust any uneven floorboards before beginning work. Coat it's with thinned PVA to seal the wood.
Old cork and vinyl floor covering should always be pulled up. Check the floor beneath is dry, flat and powerful enough to support the brand new stone tiling. If you're up against quarry or ceramic tiles, it's possible to tile directly within the surface as long as there are no signs of damp, cracking or movement. Prime that old tile surface to offer the adhesive a key' for bonding and make set out your new tiles so that the grout gaps aren't aligned using the existing floor. The exceptions are shower or wet room walls that ought to be lined with a waterproof lining panel to provide the tile base.
Installing real stone tiles
The porous surface of many natural stone products means they are more vulnerable to staining than glazed tiles. Look at the manufacturer's instructions for precise laying instructions and try to seal the surfaces with the tiles, if recommended, before fixing it's too easy to spill adhesive on the tile and not notice. Open the tile packs and work from the 3 major packs to evenly distribute any color variation between packs.
Tiling a floor
With a little planning and careful starting off, dramatic stone flooring can be as easy as tiling a wall. There's usually less cutting around awkward shapes than with wall tiles and you're simply not fighting against gravity. Remove skirting boards and door thresholds prior to starting work. In the aiming stages, it's important to guarantee the tiles look completely from the entrance to the room. Often walls are bowed or away from true so check your measurements in many places along each wall. It costs slightly more but a powder mix rapid-setting adhesive is the best option for most floors. It will reach full strength after as little as 24 hours so the rest of the build isn't delayed.
Finally, plan in a movement joints required. These are 6/8mm wide and filled with flexible filler that allows for movement and prevents tile damage. These joints are normally installed where flooring abuts walling, steps, columns or another hard objects on large floor areas as well as over structural movement joints. Floors lower than four meters between walls won't normally need movement joints.
STEP-BY-STEP
1 Get the mid-points of the two longest walls and snap a chalk line over the room between these points. Repeat for the shorter walls but adjust the fishing line so that it passes with the center of the first line at right angles. Make an effort to work with as many whole tiles as possible, even if it means adjusting the grout line width slightly.
2 Lay tiles across the two lines to check if they look right from the entranceway. If any gaps in the walls are not even half a tile wide, shift the road across to make much more of a gap. Also move the guide lines so that tiles around a dominant feature (e.g. a hearth or French windows) are symmetrical where there are whole tiles in the doorway.
3 Spread about one square meter of tile adhesive/grout into one of the right angles created by the two crossing chalk lines. Scrap the notched fringe of the trowel across the mix to form ridges of the same thickness.
4 Lay the initial tiles along the fringe of the longest center line. Gently press the tiles into position, making sure they also fall into line with the other center line. Add plastic spacers each and every corner to keep them exactly the same distance apart for grouting.
5 Work outwards in the middle of the room in anticipation of having laid all the whole tiles on one half of the floor. Use a spirit level to look for the tiles are at the identical level. Now move across to the other side of the longest center line and add all of those other whole tiles. Leave to set for 24 hours.
6 Utilize the tile cutter to trim the extra edge tiles to the right shape. Look at the space at both sides in case the walls are uneven and don't forget to allow for the grouting gap. Always wear goggles and gloves when cutting tiles.
7 Leave the adhesive setting for at least 12 hours, then grout involving the tiles with the adhesive/grout. Force the mix into the gaps having a squeegee, working from side to side and up and down the tiles.
8 For wide joint lines, operate a piece of hosepipe over the grouting surface. Wipe off any grout from the tiles with a damp sponge, before it sets hard.
Wall tiling
Natural stone tiles add a touch of luxury to any room. There's no special trick to finding out how many tiles you'll need, just measure the height and width of the area and multiply these together to offer the area to be tiled. Divide this figure through the area of a single tile (e.g. a 10x10cm tile comes with an area of 100cm) to give the amount of tiles you need. Add 10 % for cutting and wastage. Installation matches for ceramic tiles but you will need an electric tile cutter using a diamond wheel as well as the capacity to tackle your selected depth of tile. Most natural stone is easier to chop than ceramic. The excess weight of real stone also need to be considered use strong battens, a minimum of 50mm wide and screwed towards the wall, to support the bottom line of tiles.
Work with a saw tile to reduce a tile to suit around an awkward shape such as a pipe or architrave. If you need to cut a curve, to fit around the side of a basin for example, create a card template the identical size as the tile. Make cuts at around 10mm spacing along the curve edge and press website into position. Trim the 10mm strips to fit exactly around the curve and transfer this shape to the tile. Make sure to leave at least 2mm for grouting.
STEP-BY-STEP
1 In order to avoid lots of cut tiles or perhaps an unbalanced look, make-up a tile gauge (a batten with the tile dimensions and grout spaces marked across the edge) to plan the positions of the tiles so that the tops with the last row of tiles under any window will be exactly flush with the ledge. You may find you will need to cut the bottom row of tiles.
2 Screw a batten for the wall along the line you've got marked. Check with a spirit level it's horizontal. Fix another upright batten along the left side with the area to be tiled. Again, make use of a spirit level to ensure it's vertical.
3 Spread the adhesive/grout over about half a square meter with the wall, starting within the corner made by the two battens. Use the notched side from the spreader to form even ribbons of adhesive. This is especially important for heavy stone tiles. Generally of thumb, 6mm notched spreaders bring walls and 10mm versions for floors.
4 Begin to tile, pressing the tiles gently to the wall and sliding into position until you see adhesive squeeze out across the sides. Press spacers into each corner and hold a spirit level over the tiles to see if they form a flat surface. Continue to tile, taking care of about a square meter at the same time until you've fixed every one of the whole tiles. Clean off adhesive in the tile surface when you work.
5 Next, lay tiles along the sides and front from the window reveal so that they cover the edges from the wall tiles. Wipe off any adhesive before it's got dried with a damp sponge.
6 Leave the splashback to dry fully before detaching the timber battens. Now cut the tiles to match into any gaps at the end of the splashback and at the leading and sides from the window reveal. Fix set up.
7 When all of the tiles are fixed, leave to dry. Force more adhesive/grout to the gaps between the tiles having a squeegee. Wipe off all of the excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsed out regularly in water that is clean. When the surface is dry, polish with a dry cloth.
8 To make a flexible waterproof seal new tiles along with a worktop, run a bead of waterproof sealant around the bottom of the tiles.
TIPS
If you are tiling around an acrylic bath, half fill with water to produce the rim flex to its maximum extent before filling the gap with a bathroom sealant.
Make screw holes for bathroom accessories using a masonry drill bit. To prevent the bit slipping and damaging the top, stick some masking tape within the area to be drilled.
Buy all of the tiles you will need at once if possible to avoid any differences between batches.
In order to form a pattern, draw an agenda of the room on graph paper to make sure the pattern can look in proportion and symmetrical.
To tile an area that has to be used everyday, tile one half of the area at a time so you can still walk across the bare floor even though the tile adhesive sets. If you discover you are working slowly as well as the adhesive is beginning to create, only spread around half a square meter at any given time. It's essential the adhesive continues to be wet when the tiles are now being fixed.
Fireplaces
Stone Fireplaces certainly are a defining feature for any lounge or dining area, making the perfect frame with a wood, coal or gas fire. Obviously, any chimney linings ought to be pre-installed in your self-build project and the surround really does come in the final stages of the project. Most companies provide a design and install service that's worth the money for such large and expensive objects. Otherwise, look at builder is happy to battle the job. It may need extra lifting equipment but the installation process isn't complicated. You can choose anything from the clean lines of a contemporary fireplace to a reproduction Regency style or make contact with an architectural salvage yard for any genuine period piece. Most yards will also undertake restoration work on stone and marble fireplaces.
Baths and basins
Baths, basins and washstands may be either stone resin or solid stone. There exists a wide range of colors offered by off-whites to reds, browns and blacks. Remember the loading on a suspended floor baths can weigh from 200 to 500kg or maybe more.
As well as the luxury of your solid stone basin, some of the modern designs can be breathtaking, with open wave forms, travertine mosaic and deceptively thin slab designs.
Worktops
Granite is easily the most popular of the natural stonework surfaces. It's easy to clean and contrasts well with lighter wood carcases. Marble and limestone look great but are softer and will scratch or stain. When you plan your kitchen, make sure the runs of floor cabinets can withstands weights as much as 90kgs per square meter average for a 30mm solid granite top. You can also specify 40mm tops, created from two 20mm layers with a ply central insert to reduce the weight. Your kitchen supplier may need to alter the design and add extra support around sink cut-outs and appliances. The suppliers will also need a clear work area so all sinks and hobs should be removed and kept free from the work area. If you're able to, don't install the wall sockets until following the worktop is fitted this may avoid any accidental damage as the stone is slid in place over the units. With regards to the shape and size of each component part, the suppliers might point to extra joints in solid granite worktops because the grain structure can be quite vulnerable to cracking if there's any stress over longer lengths or around narrow cut-out areas. Be sure to order matching granite up-stands
for your walls. These are around 100m high with polished surfaces and edges. Color-matched silicone sealant can be used for the jointing. As with sanitary items, composite quartzite can reduce the price of the kitchen but nevertheless give some of the solidity and feel of your real stone. Additionally, it has the advantage of grain consistency plus a wide range of solid reds, blues, greens plus more neutral tones.
Cleaning and maintenance
stone wall - Keep a copy with the care and maintenance instructions provided with your stonework as sealants and care procedures vary. Granite surfaces including worktops don't need a lot of specialist cleaning as the surface doesn't absorb stains in the same way as a softer travertine stone.
Wipe up any spills as soon as possible, especially liquids such as acidic juices and alcohol. Fine grit is the big enemy of stone flooring as ground in particles cause striations than eventually dull the outer lining. Use a mop, soft brush or vacuum to gather up the dirt. A neutral pH detergent and tepid to warm water will remove grease along with other light stains but ensure the floor is dried having a soft cloth to avoid a film build of residues.
Stone should just have resealing every 3-5 years approximately and some products will never need resealing. After installing any gemstone, it's essential to clean up any mortar/adhesive residue straight away as the resin-based adhesives bond' the stone surface and therefore are extremely difficult to clean up when cured. For bathroom and kitchen installations, avoid using any wax or soap cleaners for around the first six weeks. Otherwise, the stone pores will end up clogged and restrict the evaporation from your mortar/adhesive.
